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The Pip Removal Tool
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 I first saw Colin use this tool during a club demonstration in 2008 and I was very impressed with how easy it appeared to 'do the job'. Having been shown how to use it in more detail, it seemed like (and is) an ideal tool for both a beginner who has limited confidence and a well practiced amateur. Colin made one of these for me, and it really is a dream to use for simple, clean hollowing. I am pleased that Ashley Iles are going to put this tool into production.
Jon Simpson |
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A Tool For Removing The Raised Pip In The Base Of A Box
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  In 2007 I made this tool after some experimentation. I wanted to find an easier way to remove the raised point or 'pip' that tends to get left behind after hollowing a box or goblet.
The circular cutter used came from a tool suppliers stand at a woodworking exhibition. I wanted the cutter to be able to slice across the raised area in the centre of the base, without being affected by the amount of leverage that comes from the downward force on a standard box hollowing tool.
The tool shaft is a piece of round section silver steel 3/8" diameter. This is ground to a 20 degree flat slope at one end, and then drilled and tapped for fitting the cutter. The cutter is 5/8" diameter by 1/8" thickness with a centre hole. A 5mm round head Allen screw is used to bolt it onto the main bar.
 In use, the tool is placed on the tool rest horizontally and in line with the lathe centre, with the cutter facing 3 o'clock. On contact with the bottom of the box, the tool is rotated a few degrees anti-clockwise and advanced across the centre, moving from left to right whilst keeping the tool shaft horizontal. The slope, or angle on the back of the cutter is used as a bevel, riding on the surface of the wood to regulate the amount of wood being removed.
By using the tool in this way, from left to right rather than upwards, the downwards force is greatly reduced, allowing for a more easily controlled cutting action.  This makes for a more positive removal of the raised area, or pip, and due to the slicing action of the cut, will leave a smooth surface free from tear-out of the end grain. This feature was my main aim when designing the tool; however, I discovered that it was capable of more. When the tool is rotated anti-clockwise with the cutter facing 10 o’clock, it can be used in shear scraping mode, to clean up the wall and smooth out tool marks left by other hollowing tools. As the cutter is circular, and also at an angle of 20 degrees on the tool shaft, there is minimal contact with the surface of the wood as the tool is drawn back towards the top opening of a box, which in turn allows a cleaner cut that is easy to control. This is because the tool is being pulled rather than pushed. If you can visualise the fibres of the wood being cut through at a 20 degree angle instead of in line with the grain, this will show you why the finished cut is cleaner than that of a standard scraping tool.
Although the tool is designed for use on end grain work, it will also produce good results while face plate turning. I have not done much experimenting going across the grain, however, I feel that this tool will be more suitable for truing up and removing ridges and undulations left by other hollowing tools, which makes it extremely user friendly.
It doesn't take long to get the hang of using the tool, but don't try using it with the cutter facing upwards. If it is presented to the wood in this way it will be snatched downwards, and will spoil the surface of the job. Because the cutter is fixed to a round bar, it is easy to adjust the cutting angle as you move the tool across the bottom, and also up the inside of a box or a goblet. Sharpening is very easy; simply remove the cutter from the shaft, place it face down on a diamond hone, and rub it across the surface until the edge is restored.
Colin Hovland |
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